The Big M is home.

Another option that is ok for a while is a lot of guys are using Lexan. Randy Turner has one in his 50 Chevy truck. It's even tinted. They don't look bad at first but after about 10 years they start looking rough. His has been in there for over 10, maybe 15 years. But it's a daily driver and never garaged. It would be easier and cheaper. That's not always a good thing but it's an option.

The front on mine acctually wraps around more than the back. The A is straight and that is part of what worries me........Trying to make it look right.
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This is a hard top and mine is a post but the front is the same

Here's what mine looks like.
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Since getting a windshield cut can be a hassle the hardtops and convertibles have a shorter windshield and you could cut the top down to fit one,its only a couple inches and is alot of work just for that small amount of chop but something to think about.

I had the wrong year in mind. Should have known. Either way the back glass could be done. Matters what style you like. Front is no different. Still have to find someone that can cut one down. As for the metal work yours would be easier with the post. Should have to pull them in with a wrap around windshield. If you do it won't be much.

So do you wind up laying the windshield back more or pull the brow of the roof out to match the windshield?

I have seen them with the windshield and rear window sunk in the body so they would not have to be cut.

If you use one roof you normally pull it forward. On yours I'd have to look at it a while and get my eyes on everything. By the picture what I may do if I was doing it would be to grab another roof. Cut the A pillars down 2 1/4 that would leave a gap in the front when you drop it for the top of the new windshield. I cut the front of the roof forward of the A pillar and move it forward to take up that gap. Using the second roof for a filler. In the back I would drop it 3 1/4 and use another back glass. Something more round, like on the black car I posted.Maybe even taking a little out of the upper rear roof to let it flow better. Like I said I'd have to sit and look at the car. It's like an art form to me. It's really hard for me to get my mind on it without looking and even feeling the car.

junkyardjeff wrote:I have seen them with the windshield and rear window sunk in the body so they would not have to be cut.

I have seen this done too. Making a tray for the bottoms to be sunk in the car. If you have a filler piece you can take off between the hood and glass you can make it look good or if the hood comes close in the rear to the windshield. If not then to me it looks funny when you are up on it. Okay as a drive by but after you start looking it's out of place and pain to keep clean. They weld in tube with drain hoses to get the water out, like they would on a french antenna but it's so tight you can't get in to it to clean the dirt and grime out of the package tray you make for it to sit on.

I was thinking 2 1/2 and 3 1/2. I guess that puts us in the same ball park.

Arieldouglas wrote:I was thinking 2 1/2 and 3 1/2. I guess that puts us in the same ball park.

That would work fine. For a 50's car they are a little boxy from the side. I don't think I'd go any lower than that unless you were going full blown radical custom. We could make mail slot windows if you want to though. Just have to sit on the floor to drive it.

I wish you would have been up here when the guys from Ohio were taking turns driving my chop top 34. It was funny watching then trying to get in it. I think Big Dog took the cake. It took him a while but he squeezed in. He had to put one leg in the right floor and let the tall shifter sit between his legs. I'd give $100.00 to have video tape of that night. Good times...

Doug have you been tinkering with the car any?

Very little. Every time I think I have some money put away to work on it something blows up. Had to buy a new (used) hay mower last week. The gear box went down the last time we cut hay and it's about that time again. There goes another grand. 

Seems that way for a lot of us. We just have to keep our heads up. Sooner or later it gets better.

Reb Stew wrote:Seems that way for a lot of us. We just have to keep our heads up. Sooner or later it gets better.

Yeppers...KEEP THE FAITH!!!

Later,

Lee

This question goes to Doug & Jeff. I picked up rear springs today. They came out of a 56 Fairlane sedan. They are the same length and width as the Merc, but one less leaf. See any problem? I also have 2" lowering blocks I am planning to use. 

It might set a little lower with those springs.  Only 2" blocks?  I had an old 2 door post Merc that I put blocks on top of blocks.  The wife and kid was out of town at the time so the car set just right for me and the dog to drive around.  When the family came home, things changed.  You shouldn't have any trouble.  Junkyard Jeff and I have the same lowered rear springs on our Ford and Mercury.  He has a little different theory on ride height.  I want mine even lower and he wants to raise his back up.  I really wished I had a 4 link and air ride in the back but not enough dough for that.  You starting to tinker with that Big M again?  You must have found a few extra bucks.  Maybe if we both live long and get them done enough we could meet up some where and compare notes.

When I pulled the old springs out and compared them, the Ford springs have about two inches less arch. I'm going to try it without the blocks first. I think I'll be able to set it on the ground in the morning before the hay baling starts. Maybe with two inches less and one less leaf it will be about right. 

Yea. Came up with a few bucks. Get the rear end in, cut the drive shaft and maybe try to fire it up. Still have plenty to do though.

The mercury had more leafs because the mers were a little heaver then the fords.

oldman wrote:The mercury had more leafs because the mers were a little heaver then the fords.

That's what I figured. That's why I'm going to try it without the blocks first.

How about some dumb luck. Got the rear end in and bolted up. I have a selection of drive shafts and this is the first one I tried. Off to get the right cross and should be good to go. 
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