Re: The Big M is home.

by Arieldouglas December 21st 2012, 8:52 pm

OK, unlike some who only want technical education, I'm looking for an opinion.
There is a 55 Merc in the junkyard here I'm planning to get the rear springs from. I can buy the whole car. It's got several parts I could use and I was thinking (always dangerous) If I had two roofs, wouldn't it make it easier to chop the top on my car. Seems like if I cut each in the right place I could piece them back together without having to add a piece in. There is a guy over on the HAMB that has a 56 post with a 4" chop and I like the look. Y'all think it would work and Doug how about the look? Benny, I know you have a thought or two and I been working on my calluses. Razz

by Nanook December 21st 2012, 9:14 pm

Well, when it comes to fabbing I've always subscribed to the school of 'Have a spare just in case' and this would serve that purpose. Plsu net some extras. And although scrap isn't much now it would get a few $$ back in your pocket (every little bit does help). Just my 2 cents, sir. What a Face

Later,

Lee

by junkyardjeff December 22nd 2012, 12:08 am

Does that 55 merc have its original 292.

by Arieldouglas December 22nd 2012, 12:44 am

With the automatic behind it. That's one of the pluses. I could use the auto column and not put in the floor shift.

by junkyardjeff December 22nd 2012, 12:59 am

I have been thinking about trying to find a 55 merc or thunderbird 292 so I could be somewhat numbers correct even though the rest of the drivetrain would not be

by Reb Stew December 22nd 2012, 2:13 am

junkyardjeff wrote: numbers correct e

What's that? Stock is not what it use to be. You use to want a car/truck in stock trim or with matching numbers if possible but now a days no one cares. Hot rods are where the money is. You can price a stock 31 Model A and it's not that bad. Take a nice chopped 31 Model A and the price is 40% higher. Look at my 54 truck. Nice all stock 54 are selling for 6 to $8K I almost hit $12K for something I had $3K invested in. It's just not the way it was when we were younger unless you are talking about early Vette's, Ferrari or concourse type of cars/trucks.

by Arieldouglas December 22nd 2012, 5:51 am

Well even at that I can only say for sure that it's a Y-block. Wasn't really interested in the motor but I did think of you when I saw it was all there.

by junkyardjeff December 22nd 2012, 5:56 am

I think you just dont get what I am doing,I really can care less about it being numbers correct but something more to mess with the restorers if I were ever to get in a conversation about the motor if it ever gets a Y block. This is like what I am doing to the 37 with putting 37 parts on the later 235,I just picked up a correct 37 216 side cover with the plug wire holders to go in the new 235 I got and when this cover is done it wont be as easily noticed that it has been modified. A 1955 292 bored to accept 312 pistons and a 312 crank turned down to fit the 292 block is not stock,like what I am doing with the 37 is to make the casual observers think they are seeing stock but its not..

Reb Stew wrote:
junkyardjeff wrote: numbers correct e
What's that? Stock is not what it use to be. You use to want a car/truck in stock trim or with matching numbers if possible but now a days no one cares. Hot rods are where the money is. You can price a stock 31 Model A and it's not that bad. Take a nice chopped 31 Model A and the price is 40% higher. Look at my 54 truck. Nice all stock 54 are selling for 6 to $8K I almost hit $12K for something I had $3K invested in. It's just not the way it was when we were younger unless you are talking about early Vette's, Ferrari or concourse type of cars/trucks.

by Arieldouglas December 22nd 2012, 6:00 am

Isn't the bottom of the 292 supposed to be weaker than the 312.
Oh and I get it. I've been following the '37.

by junkyardjeff December 22nd 2012, 6:01 am

I am thinking about trying to find a 1955 292 for a possible motor for the 55,I do have a correct 272 motor I can have punched out to a 292 but a 55 292 stroked to a 312 could be a possibility too. The correct 55 casting numbers is just for me to say yeah it has a original motor.

Arieldouglas wrote:Well even at that I can only say for sure that it's a Y-block. Wasn't really interested in the motor but I did think of you when I saw it was all there.

by Arieldouglas December 22nd 2012, 6:04 am

I still have to get the springs if nothing else. How do I ID it?

by Arieldouglas December 22nd 2012, 6:06 am

And still not hearing anything more on chopping the top. The silence is deafening. Laughing

by junkyardjeff December 22nd 2012, 6:07 am

I dont know if a 292 is weaker then a 312 but the early 312 blocks were known to crack in the main bearing areas due to the larger journals,a 312 crank in a 292 is a way to make a better motor. I think the 60 to 64 292 block is better then the rest but I want some 55 parts on the outside,the 60 to 64 292 big truck 292s had steel cranks where the rest were cast but I am not going to make a real hot motor.

by Arieldouglas December 22nd 2012, 6:10 am

junkyardjeff wrote: but the early 312 blocks were known to crack in the main bearing areas due to the larger journals,

This is probably what I was trying to remember.

by junkyardjeff December 22nd 2012, 4:18 pm

If I cant find a 55 292 I will use the 55 to 57 272 block I have and bore it to a 292 after I get the block sonic checked,for those who do not understand what I am doing when I said numbers correct I just want to use a original block but the rest will not be so original.

by oldman December 22nd 2012, 4:34 pm

Go for it Doug it's less welding if you want a chop top, buy the car you, will have some spare parts .I have a x 54 parts car its a 4 door But that's me .Good Luck which ever way you go Smile

by junkyardjeff December 22nd 2012, 5:16 pm

If you want to chop it go for it but if I were to do it I would like a couple extra roofs in case of a problem.

by Reb Stew December 22nd 2012, 5:33 pm

With that roof it would be a good idea to use two roofs. There are many ways to chop one but it matters what the car is. You would be better with using two roofs. I'm not sure i can explain everything in type. I could show you in 5 seconds.

THE BIG PROBLEM.
You have to figure out the glass. Sides are no biggie. The back window and windshield is something you need to think hard about. Who can you get to cut it down there and what it would cost. If you are sure you want to do it I'll try to explain the better way/easier way to do the chop. Metal work is no biggie. It's the glass if you ask me.

by Reb Stew December 22nd 2012, 5:36 pm

If you get everything ready to go I could come down and help you out for a day. An 8 hours day would have most of the fab work done on the roof drop if you have the second roof, glass out and everything ready to get to work.

by Arieldouglas December 22nd 2012, 5:39 pm

The glass is what originally held me up. Flat glass would not be a problem that I can see but windshield and back glass are both curved.
I really thought you would jump in there and tell me how to cut it Steve. study

by Reb Stew December 22nd 2012, 5:50 pm

There are ways but I have never tried it. A windshield cost so much it's hard to jump in there and give it a try. I seen a guy do it with water and a sanding disk shaving the glass down. It takes hours and it's easy to bust. It's just a big chance.

Some use a cutter and cut the first layer of glass and snap it. Breaking the one side of the two piece glass. Pour lighter fluid in the cut and set it on fire burning the safety plastic then flipping it over and cutting the other side.

by Reb Stew December 22nd 2012, 5:59 pm

Your back glass is the issue. It's the pain.

Besides it sucking on a chop top it doesn't let the roof flow when you drop it. With the back glass even cut, all you are doing is dropping the lid. Too far and the roof starts looking to flat, square if you will. That is why some of those look funny in the windshield. people try to take them too far down trying to get a wild look. It ends up making the windshield look out of place as well as the rest of the car.

What I would do but it's more work is to change out the back glass. If you do away with the back glass and put something else in it you can not only drop the lid but you can lower the rear more giving it more flow. It will smooth it out and give it a really nice flowing look without being so boxy.

Something like this.

by Arieldouglas December 22nd 2012, 6:01 pm

Reb Stew wrote:
Some use a cutter and cut the first layer of glass and snap it. Breaking the one side of the two piece glass. Pour lighter fluid in the cut and set it on fire burning the safety plastic then flipping it over and cutting the other side.

I tried to help a buddy do this. It didn't work out too good. I dont know what he finally did but he did get windshield to fit. I guess I ought to lok him up.

by Arieldouglas December 22nd 2012, 6:04 pm

Reb Stew wrote:

Something like this.

That's sweet!

by Reb Stew December 22nd 2012, 6:08 pm

I was thinking... clown

I'd have to find one up here to eyeball but if you did change out the back window you may not even need a second roof. I would have to look at the A pillars in person to know for sure.
It all matters what look you like. If you want to keep the wrap around rear glass you really need two tops. If you opt for the flowing roof and change out the back glass you may be able to get away with what you have.

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