Bread & Butter 27 Ford Project

First off you have the stock front end. Axle, spring, wish bones. The wish bones come off the axle and go back & towards the center of the car where they meet and have a ball joint on the end. If you flipped the axle up in the air it would look like a V or a wish bone..
Okay now we are making a hot rod. Some have ask what are split wish bones? Well it's just what it sounds like. You cut the end off the bones and loose the ball joint and now they are split. They will no longer be in the middle of the car. You will pull them out and they will bolt up to the outside frame rail.
With the end of the split wish bones cut off you now have an open hole in the end. You have to have something to thread the tie rod in to.

The snazzy little bong on top of the bone will be put in the hole. The bong is threaded inside.

Make sure you are free of paint and rust before you weld the bung in the bone. Not my best weld but it is deep and will hold.

Cleaning up is done with 36 gritt disk. Not to take away from the weld but just to feather the edges out some. If you are a really good welder I'd leave the welds alone and show them off. I'm not that good but I wanted a smooth look anyway so I would have cleaned even super nice welds up.

Next comes the tie rod end. This is your typical Ford Tie rod end. Nothing special. You can go to Advance or any place and get them.

The tie rod end is 11/16 with a 7 degree taper on the shaft. This is the 7 degree taper where I'm pointing.

Next comes the mounting bracket for the bones. This bracket comes from a few different places. I got mine from Speedway Motors. The mounts have a 7 degree tapered hole for your tie rod end.

This is how it will look after it is on the frame.

Good tech, but its called a "BUNG" a "BONG" is what a certain type of person smokes a certain kinda plant out of, or so I am told... ...

How often do you clean your "Bong"? Weekly?

LOL It's been a very long time since I cleaned out the bong so I guess the damage was done all long time ago. Sorry, BUNG EVERYONE. LOL
Bad thing is I typed it a few times and still didn't catch it.

My fancy JC Penny tires.


Added some gussets. Something to be different more than anything. Also Vickers said not to do it.

I welded on the bracket and stuck a gusset up to it. I ask Vickers what he thought and he said it looked like crap. So I welded two of them on and rolled them over the top of it. Vickers is worried about what to tell me now so he trys not to answer me when I ask him something. I do everything he says not to just to get his goat.

Yesterday was a nice day out and most of it was just playing around and not really working to hard. I had company all day at different times and it was nice to just hang out in the garage and bench race. Jim Wethington, Vickers, Johnny, Glenn, Randy Turner, Benjaman, Tracy, Jonathan, Howie, and My old friend the famous Bruce Highchew. It was a cool day and I had a good time.
I did manage to get everything mocked up. Vickers I were talking about a mid motor mount to take the preasure off the bell housing. When Jim showed up he said the same thing. I fabbed up a bracket that will do the job and ripped the 27 back apart for the finish welding and prep work to get the front end stuff and frame ready for paint.
Some Newport bum that walks by all the time to see what I'm doing thought that Jims truck was my T and I finished it already. I should have played it off and told him it was but I didn't.

Hey that looks cool and Jims T looks cool. Is he by any chance from Casey Co. My Grandmother is a Wethington. Hope to see this soon. I'll post soon on the T I'm working on.

puddin head wrote:Hey that looks cool and Jims T looks cool. Is he by any chance from Casey Co. My Grandmother is a Wethington. Hope to see this soon. I'll post soon on the T I'm working on.

Jim's truck is a 32 Ford. I think he is from Casey but not 100% sure. I thought we were talking about it once. Jim is on here from time to time. He may chime in. This isn't HAMB Jim we all get along on this forum LOL.

puddin head wrote:Hey that looks cool and Jims T looks cool. Is he by any chance from Casey Co. My Grandmother is a Wethington. Hope to see this soon. I'll post soon on the T I'm working on.

Look at the county on the back on his truck's tags Terry. Casey Co.

I worked on the T for a few hours tonight.
This should send Vickers up the wall. I sanded all the rust off of it.

I've seen these funny looking disk for rust but never figured they would work. A little pricy at 10 bucks a pop but I'm hooked now. These takes the rust and scale away and hardly messes with the good metal. When working on this old rusty junk you need to try to save as much good tin as you can. The sanding disk are a thing of the past for me on this pitted rusty stuff. If you get a chance to try one let me know what you think.

I put my sand blasting cabinet in the garage yesterday and today blasted some small brackets and such.
I also went to Lowes and bought another hole saw. I managed to get both of my Bones drill out like I want them. Doing this was as simple as 6 quarters spaced out 2 1/2 inches from each other and spray the bones with a spray can. Let dry, yank off your painted coins and take it to the drill press. I used what was left of that rust remover disk to clean up this bone.

If you cover all the metal with yellow mustard it gives it a nice uniform coat of rust.
Then you could call it.....









Get ready........









The rusT- Bucket.

No Mustard or rust, when it's all said and done it will have paint on her.

Slow working the last few days. I did get a few things done. I figured out where my trans was going to sit so I started on the firewall.
Trim, trim and more trimming.

I like my oil cans but it was the perfect size. It was dented on the bottom anyways.

More templates were made out of paper for the lower part of the firewall.



There was also 7 or 8 small holes in the firewall that needed filled in. For the ones that don't know it is easy to do with a little help.

How to do it: Get someone to help you if it's in a spot you can't reach. I use a piece of copper pipe with a cap on the end of it. Same stuff you have in your house for water lines. The wire from the welder will not stick to copper so push the copper plug against the hole from the inside and weld up the hole from the outside. The copper will hold the wire and arc it to start the weld and hold it in the hole. After the weld while it's cherry red take you body hammer and give it a light tap while the other guy still has the pipe against the weld. It will smooth out the weld and keep the firewall from getting warped.

I did some more to the bones.
Here was a pic after I had drilled holes in them.

Some guys back in the day left them like this. I've seen a few bend without holes and I didn't want to take any chances so out came the pipe and 6 pieces were welded in and ground down.

Finished one over the undone one.
It still needs cleaned up some and more metal prep but you get the idea.

I need a few thing on the cheap if anyone has it let me know.

1. Need a set of junk headers for a small block Chevy. I don't care if they are bent in two. All I need is the flange that bolts to the head. Got it! Thanks Joe!

2. Two model A tail lights.

3. Cool looking dash to cut down and go in the T. Something from the 40's or 50's. Got it! Thanks Doug!

4. 1927 Kentucky license plate.

5. Early F1 shock mounts.

6 Someone that can weld aluminum. I want some work done on an intake set up I have. Very expensive setup so you must know what you are doing and must have worked with aluminun before.

7. 350 turbo trans or 700R/200R. Must be known to work good.

8. drive shaft that will go in a 350 turbo. Doesn't matter what it came out of. I have to cut it down anyway.

Fenderwell headers for a small block Chevy. I'd love to find a set for an early Nova but any fenderwell header will do.
If you have anything pm me a price...
Thanks

RebStew wrote:I need a few thing on the cheap if anyone has it let me know.
1. Need a set of junk headers for a small block Chevy. I don't care if they are bent in two. All I need is the flange that bolts to the head.


Thanks

I still have those truck headers i got from ya over the summer that i dont need and i think i have a driveshaft with a 350 yoke......i have a 700r that needs rebuilt if you or anyone else may want (free) cleaning out the storage,,,,

magicman_1968 wrote:I still have those truck headers i got from ya over the summer that i dont need and i think i have a driveshaft with a 350 yoke......i have a 700r that needs rebuilt if you or anyone else may want (free) cleaning out the storage

How much you want for the drive shaft and headers?
If you are going to pitch the trans I'll take it. The club has a 350 turbo case we use for mock up. I could gut the 700R and use it too. I didn't think anyone would care about the 350 turbo for a mock up but we have had a few club members come and get it to use.

Its yours man.. I be home tomorrow about 6pm.

Are you talking about the shock mounts that bolt through the axle?

1/2done wrote:Are you talking about the shock mounts that bolt through the axle?

No the s shaped brackets that go on the frame

Last few days have been a long ones. Nothing really to show in pics but alot ALOT! of welding gring more welding more grindind ect ect. I have the front half of the frame all ground down and shaped like I want. All the holes welded up in the firewall. Late last night I cleaned everything up and shot some ruster converter over the frame and firewall. This will take care of the rust in the pits I couldn't get to. I have to leave it sit for 24 hours before doing anything else to let it work. Next will come the epoxy primer and some bodywork.

I hAve a turbo 350 w/short shaft andyoke I will trade for a S-10 T-5 pre 93

The rust converter has dried and turned dark. Time for the epoxy primer over the pits.



My new windshield and frame from Jim Wethington. It doesn't fit but we will fix that.


My new Ebay find that I may use in the T. Yeah it run backwards.