54 F100 doors

Sorry for the lack of photos, can't get the servimg to work for me..... maybe an operating system hangup? Anyway, the rear suspension is done, complete with 73 Torino 9" with sway bar, front is back together with front hubs machined to accept 5 on 4.5 Torino wheels, and 5 on 5.5 will still be able to go back on. Have a set of nostalgia-ish aluminum slots all around. Want to add a front sway bar, but can't find anything narrow enough. Also have been advised to add a panhard to the front to give the handling some predictability. Heater is done, ready to install. Box is together again, save for the floor. Got a Mustang 12v wiper motor grafted to the original set of drive links, could use a set of hubs to go through the cowl to hook my arms to, that I don't have. A little cleanup, and some work on the doors and body, and I could probably have 'er going by fall.

As progress goes, it's been pretty slow, but one thing now has me a bit stymied: While doing other repairs, spent many hours getting the door hinges in shape, the latches cleaned and lubed, and adjusting the strikers on the posts. The pass side was easy to get adjusted, the drivers side not so much, but with patience and time ( and a few licks with the big hammer) got the latches to work. In the meantime, many other things were fixed, repaired, and otherwise limbered up, plus the engine and trans were installed. I had the nose in the air with stands under the front axle. Got many of the hookups done to see if this Isuzu diesel will run, and if the C-6 will leak fluid, let the truck down on the floor on all 4's, and now the pass door barely latches, and the drivers door comes nowhere near latching, the latch wheel is way too low to catch the striker teeth, and the door is up as far as it will go on the hinges, and the striker is as low on the post as it will go, so I am at a loss as to my next step. I'm thinking this might indicate the cab mounts may be moving around, but it seems it wouldn't have THAT much to do with it. Any one with experience with this, I will be listening intently for a solution. I am preparing to drill out the striker holes to get the strikers lowered on the posts. Suggestions, comments criticisms: help!

One thing is that the body is flexing. If you had it jacked up and adjusted the door to were they both works and then you sat it on the floor and it's all out of wack. The body is flexing bad. what are the floors like? Body bushings? Don't go drilling holes to make things fit. Fix what's wrong. If you find that the floors and fr5am are ok then re-adjust the hinges with it sitting on the floor.
I'm not too sure on those models but do you have the latches mixed up? Some models you have a left and right bottom and top. Some time the upper and lowers will bolt into the same holes but the mounting holes for the doors will be off.
Can you post some pics of the hinges?

I utilized my 3rd grade education and realized one minor (!) issue.... When I did the door and striker adjustments, the front inner and outer fenders were hanging off the firewall unsupported. Before I set it down, I put the rad support in, which bolts to the frame with a rubber insulator, and also bolts to the outer and inner fenders, so when I picked up the front tinwork to get the bolts in the rad support and the fenders, it took all the weight off the front of the cab, allowing it to obtain a shape it apparently wasn't in before. The doors still fit the openings good, but the latches and strikers weren't within 7 barrels of you-know-whats of being where they needed to be, so I will start over with the striker and latch adjustments, but I still think I will need to redrill the drivers side post for the striker, cuz it's already down as far as it will go. Anyway, I got 'er figgerd out, sooner or later it'll be together. If it was easy, everyone would do it. Thanks for your suggestions. Got a headlight ring for a 54 F100 - an extra, will it fit your application? It's the ring that holds the sealed beam.