1936 Chevy pick 'em up truck

A lot of people have email me to ask about the steering on this swap. I even had a guy come down from Pennsylvania to take pics of the frame where the rack went on. First off let me tell you that you can do a much better job fabbing the rack mount. I didn't care how it looked as long as it was strong. If this would have been a real nice body I would have taken more time but for now this is what it is. in this pic you can see how the frame was notched for the steering. a piece of square tubing was welded on top of the lip that hangs out in the front of the frame. Then 1/4" thick strips were welded on both sides. two hole were drilled for the rack to bolt onto.

now came the hard part. with a small bock I wouldn't have had any trouble at all but with the width of the BBC I had to get creative.this is all just mocked up. nothing is welded prepped or paint yet. I made a mount for the heim joint that hooks to the head. I would NOT suggest you do this. You should have the heim joint mounted to the frame. If you break a motor mount you will loose your steeing. PLUS most guys rubber mount the engine. This would also cause steering issues. So don't use my rack swap as a guide PLEASE! Mount the heim to the frame and you will be fine. The reason I mounted mine this way is that I have 1/4" thick solid motor mount. Also the last bolt you see hanging out will have a steel brace ran down to the frame. Bolts are mock up too. grade 8's will be installed. My engine is not going to move or break unless something crazy happens like slamming a wall. If that's the case the steering is the last of my worries. Another huge reason that I did mine this way is it is more basic, clean and simple. If I made a brace for the heim joint to the frame I would have had to run the steering under the header, use another joint and go through the firewall on the bottom of it and add another joint to go up. I don't like this idea because it is more stress on the joints and I don't want the steering coming up through the floor like an early T bucket with the steering wheel laying flat instead of up and down. The other way was to mount it on the frame and have the shaft come up past the header and out of the engine compartment, having to notch a little bit of the fender. Then use the two more joint to get it back to where the steering wheel needs to be on the inside.A lot more joints and it would have looked like a jungle gym. Also I wouldn't have been able to close the hood sides if I ever run a hood.
The way I ran it I have one joint at the rack, one joint at the valve cover and then a straight shot to the inside. Another Heim joint hold the other end on a piece of square tubing that run across the cab behind the dash. from the side is is very clean and doesn't get in the way of closing the hood side or taking off the valve cover.

it's hard to show you in the pics but this is the best way I could see to run it. I have less than a 1/2" on both sides of the joint. this is very close. but I think it looks better than having 3 pieces of bar and 3 joints sticking out all different places. like I said if you are going with a small block you won't have this problem.

I have been watching these regulators on ebay for a year trying to catch one cheap. I always get outbidded. most go for around 75 bucks. it has been a while since one hit ebay and I didn't want this one to get away. This is one of the last things I need for my truck. I've been watching it and was going to bid 101 bucks just to make sure I get it. I clicked on the link tonight and wow! $175.00 with 3 days to go. this stinks!!!! I'm about ready to make my own If I can't find one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320225804918&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=011

Who thinks Steve can be driving the 36 by Spring??

Lady rebel wrote:Who thinks Steve can be driving the 36 by Spring??

lol you trying to put me on the spot? It will be running and driving by the time nice weather hits.

It's pretty nice out today!!! :king:

FalconEddie1964 wrote:It's pretty nice out today!!! :king:

I'll be working on your Falcon today.

RebStew wrote:

FalconEddie1964 wrote:It's pretty nice out today!!! :king:

I'll be working on your Falcon today.

That's GOOD. I want to drive MY Falcon to the Rumble next spring. And don't forget the Flame Throwers. That 460 should push enough gas to really light a flame. I can't see the progress from here but I'll check it out tonite.

How can I talk to stew about the 36 chevy truck? I have one on a s-10 frame as well and it is also hitting the steering box. I need some info on how it was corrected, or what would be a better frame to use? Can anyone help?

click on his name and send him a priv message

santa6957 wrote:How can I talk to stew about the 36 chevy truck? I have one on a s-10 frame as well and it is also hitting the steering box. I need some info on how it was corrected, or what would be a better frame to use? Can anyone help?

Give me a call
859 663-8287 cell
859 261-2592
859 261xxxx
Steve

whats the new number

xycho_wraith wrote:whats the new number

It's not new it a personal line..well was.

lol not if ur posting it on the net

That's the important phone that we answer. lol

no wonder i only had the other # then

You just solved my dilema on my mail jeep (right hand drive) trying to clear the headers and making it clean........I 've never used a heim joint with a stud.........beautiful job.......looks a lot cleaner than my plate and bearing........

for sale or trade!

FalconEddie1964 wrote:It's pretty nice out today!!! :king:

so what happened

RebStew wrote:

Lady rebel wrote:Who thinks Steve can be driving the 36 by Spring??

lol you trying to put me on the spot? It will be running and driving by the time nice weather hits.

this is what i ment about what happend????

I'm buying a Honda..

as long as its a honda and not a nissan.... lol

or a datsun

or a yugo

DEMONSPEED wrote:or a yugo

Yugo 7.62