Major issues with brakes ?????

If you open one of the lines not the bleeder will anything come out? Do you have anyone pumping the brakes and holding them before you loosen the bleeder?

RebStew wrote:If you open one of the lines not the bleeder will anything come out? Do you have anyone pumping the brakes and holding them before you loosen the bleeder?

Yup to both questions.

Okay boys and girls... I thought I had issues up to now.... here we go.

The power brake set up that the PO put on the '59 F100 was from a '69 Lincoln Continental. And as I was looking into going ahead and replacing the booster and making some calls, I found out that Zone, Advance and Orielly all sell the booster for the Lincoln. But all of them cannot get them from their distributor. Go figure. So simple conclusion, OBSOLETE. So my issue is a bit greater now that I have a master from a Lincoln but cannot get a booster to mate it to. So what do I do? Do I get a '75 F100 power disk/drum set up like what my rotors are from? My buddy at Orielly said I could bring the master back and put it towards a master/booster set up but I am pretty much at a dead end of what would be best. Any suggestions?

Ideas? Besides getting a horse!?!

CustomCabby wrote:Okay boys and girls... I thought I had issues up to now.... here we go.

The power brake set up that the PO put on the '59 F100 was from a '69 Lincoln Continental. And as I was looking into going ahead and replacing the booster and making some calls, I found out that Zone, Advance and Orielly all sell the booster for the Lincoln. But all of them cannot get them from their distributor. Go figure. So simple conclusion, OBSOLETE. So my issue is a bit greater now that I have a master from a Lincoln but cannot get a booster to mate it to. So what do I do? Do I get a '75 F100 power disk/drum set up like what my rotors are from? My buddy at Orielly said I could bring the master back and put it towards a master/booster set up but I am pretty much at a dead end of what would be best. Any suggestions?

I would get what ever Booster/MC set up I could get, off a Big Car or Truck, as the bore dia must be large to move the fluid that will stop you, I used the one off the Volare' on my 48 Panel truck, So hit the old pull and pay, find a full size Ford and I am sure it would work..It is a fluid issue, we just need to move the fluid, so as long as it will bolt/hook up you'll be home free....I am using a set up off a truck on Vicki's 59, I have to hang pedals on it as well...

I have used the S10 stuff too and it work well. Even with a bad booster it should have brakes. All the booster does is make it easier to push the pedal. Do you have any brakes or are they hard? Do you have the right amount of pivit on the brake pedal arm?? It's hard to figure something out when you can't see it or feel it.

Okay, after bench bleeding master AGAIN and running 2 quarts of fluid through the system and spending about 20 minutes on each bleeder, I think it's squared away. The air sound is still there but I seem to have my brakes back. I plan on taking a nice drive today to see if it stays that way. If not, I leave title and truck and walk home!

If you leave it let me know where..lol .. I like that truck.

ford....... found on road dead ..... u guys opened the door for that ......

ss 383 wrote:ford....... found on road dead ..... u guys opened the door for that ......

yes they did

ss 383 wrote:ford....... found on road dead ..... u guys opened the door for that ......

watch it now, she's got some Cheby parts on her too!

For cryin out flippin loud!!!!!

Took it for a test drive today and you guessed it, issues! Took about 15 minutes worth of driving and then I started to feel some drag. The pedal was very soft at first, even to the point of coasting about 10 foot with pedal to the floor. The pedal did firm up the further I drove it but it wasn't a consistant firmness every time. The closer I got to home the worse it got. So bad that I was having to overpower the brakes in order to get it home and in turn made the lifters chatter big time. Parked it and felt wheels, rears and pass. front where typically warm but the driver's side was very hot. If you remember right, at one time this issue was happening before I replaced the calipers and before I replaced the master cylinder. So......... being that I have put endless money into this just to have the same flippin issue.... where do I turn to now?

If you have a air sound from the booster its probably going bad,it sounds like the booster is not allowing the master cylinder to completely release causing the brakes to lock up after driving for some time. The booster in my wagon done the same and I took it off untill I got it rebuilt,eliminate the booster and see if it does the same and you will have to make a new push rod but that should not be too hard.

So, I have been driving the truck to work and back for a couple days, being its only 3 miles one way it has been fine with not bringing itself to a stop. I had some yard waste in the back that I wanted to take to the dump and so I chanced it and went. During the drive, I noticed some resistance but could not tell if it was brakes or trans. Popped the hood while there and was messing with the check valve in booster and dropped the plug, couldn't find it so just left it out. So I had manual brakes the rest of the way so I think it's safe to say that the booster is bad.

But..... here's another issue. While driving back I couldn't get any power out of it. I was pushing it so hard to get to 40 mph that I thought the top end was going to fly off from all the chattering it was doing, so needless to say, I backed off of it and drove it as softly as possible. And the further I drove, the worse it got. And when I finally coasted I put it in neutral to make sure I wasn't over-powering the brakes and I didn't slow down one bit like what I have experienced with the check valve being plugged in and power brakes being used. Now I know there is an issue with the trans because after 1st and 2nd while in drive, I have to put it in 2nd and then back to drive to make it go into 3rd. The PO/builder told me that it was the C6 that was bolted to that original motor and all he did to it was put a shift kit in it. And when I was driving it back from the dump, it took quite a while for it to shift into each gear. I think I got the trans hot when I was trying to get out of a mud hole I got myself into. There is no trans cooler on it and was not going to put one on it until I got everything squared away to the point I could drive it a fair distance. So, once again.... whatchya guys thinkin?