Howie's 1971 Chevelle

I have a cam for sale Howie. Not a huge thumper. It's in the for sale section if you want to look at the specs

Howie got the block back from the machine shop today. We got it on a stand in my garage and hopefully this weekend i will get it back together. Got the tranny tore down and the clutches were gone. we have alot to get done now Howie...

Get to work Howie. Get er done!!

I'm ready lets hit it.

did u all get anything done on motor or trans

Trans is finished and the shortblock almost finished.....i had to hang with the family today so i didnt even go out in the garage....

Engine and trans back together and we dropped them back in the car today....Howie has the rest of the week to get things all hooked back up and ready to run...Thanks Mike for letting us use your lot.....

Good deal!

Sweet!

not a problem any time

That's great news!

Later,

Lee

Headed down to mikes about noon if anybody is out and about. Hopefully it drives out of that lot today. Just got small stuff to button up.

Very nice!

Well we fired up the chevelle today let it run long enough for Joe tp believe it has a bent valve. Just my luck. Well as soon as i got a couple a bucks it will be time to tear it back down to replace the valve. Thanks to Joe and Mike for the help and the use of the lot.

that sucks ...

It will be ok...a little frustrating but we will get it....we just cleaned up the heads and put them back on but the same cyl. that spun the bearing and hit the bottom of the head is the same one thats not hittin right now....i think the piston must have made contact with the intake valve before....should have checked it but was in a rush to get it back together and i wouldnt have thought a dish piston could have touched the valve.....

Saw it was still sitting there. Wondered what happened.
When did the valve get bent?

From when the motor spun a rod bearing the first time...i looked on the old piston a little bit ago to see if there was a visible point of contact and i didnt see anything.....gonna run a compression test on that cyl and a few others to see what kind of difference there is.....who knows he be lucky and just have a bad wire not firing the plug...that would be great

Hopefully it's something simple like a plug wire or something. Get it fired up Howie and drive it to get everything seated in.

I think I may have lucked out, a new plugs wire took away the miss. Still having a problem with the lifters making a ton of noise. It may be from my choice of cam and lifters(not a name brand) that is causing me some problems. Going down tomorrow and going to drive it to my house to see what happens. May need to replace cam and lifters But thats what you get when you skimp on the parts you use to save a couple of bucks.

good deal...

made in cina ...parts suck (BEEP)

If it's a Summit brand cam I don't think that's the problem. I have run 5 or more without any problems. Just take it easy on it while everything is getting seated in. Maybe go back through the rockers again.

hp77skylark wrote:I think I may have lucked out, a new plugs wire took away the miss. Still having a problem with the lifters making a ton of noise. It may be from my choice of cam and lifters(not a name brand) that is causing me some problems. Going down tomorrow and going to drive it to my house to see what happens. May need to replace cam and lifters But thats what you get when you skimp on the parts you use to save a couple of bucks.

Glad the valves are ok.

I'm sure you've seen all of this before but sometimes it helps to review the process.

Valve Adjustment Procedure - The CORRECT Way

The simplest way to adjust a hydraulic or solid lifter cam, whether it is a tappet or roller cam, is described below. But FIRST, you need to forget about is all that information that many individuals (and books) have taught you in the past. In many cases, if interpreted wrong, you could be in for more trouble than before you tried to adjust the valves in the first place. Think about those things that can affect your valve lash, because you will need this bit of common sense before you get into this. There are other considerations besides just putting a wrench on something and attempting to follow the cam card, shop manual, or the advice of some friend or relative.

Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Quick and Accurate Way:
First, view this little chart below for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines that I made and see if you can understand it. There is more of an explanation below the chart. For other engines you will use the firing order that matches your engine to create a similar chart. This chart is based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below)
Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
■with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve
■with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve
■with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve
■with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve
■with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve
■with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve
■with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve
■with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve
Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!
You will notice that this is the same procedure and sequence as the intake valves listed above. Only now you are adjusting ONLY the exhaust valves the same way.
■with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
■with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
■with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
■with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
■with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
■with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
■with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
■with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve

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What you see above is adjustments being made on "opposite" valves on the engine cycle. The small and big block Chevy engines use a firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. What you do is separate the order into the two sides of the firing order. These are "exact" opposites that put the opposing valve at the correct location for adjustment, meaning the back side (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left).

Looking at the chart below you will see that #1 is opposite #6, and vice-verse, on through the firing order. This holds true for both intake and exhaust valves.

This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines.

1 « - » 6
8 « - » 5
4 « - » 7
3 « - » 2

If the lifter is anywhere other than on the heal of the camshaft where there is NO ramp contact you will have incorrect lash. This position is required for each valve before you attempt to perform adjustments. The chart and procedure above ensures that the lifter is on the backside of the cam lobe for each valve. When you were previously instructed by the auto shop teach or service manual to position each cylinder at TDC (piston at Top Dead Center) you will find often times that this is not the correct procedure to obtain the proper lash setting. View the image at right and you can see the required position of the cam lobe to be able to correctly adjust the valve lash.

You want to be sure that the lifter is positioned on the heel of the cam lobe which will guarantee that the valve you are adjusting is fully closed. Any other position and your adjustments will not be accurate.

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What about the actual adjustment procedure?

Hydraulic Cams:

Let's get to the actual wrench turning ... how many of you read or were taught that with a hydraulic lifter camshaft, you adjust it down to where there is pushrod resistance (zero lash) and then turn it down 1/2 to 3/4 turn? Well, if you did this, you more than likely have the valves not closing all the way!

The typical hydraulic lifter requires an adjustment that is roughly half the available travel of the plunger. If an average hydraulic lifter plunger has a range of 0.060" of travel from fully compressed to its static height with the pushrod seat against the retaining ring, half of that distance will be 0.030". This means that you adjust valves by the depth that the plunger in the lifter drops. If adjusted too tight (the plunger fully compressed) the valves do not close all the way, and if too loose the pushrod seat will rattle and do not open properly, damaging the lifter. How do you get to a 0.030" plunger depth? On newly assembled engines I will actually use a dial indicator and measure the distance of travel on the new lifter. On an engine in the car this is a bit different, and harder to do..

I have two ways that I use to adjust hydraulic lifters. One uses the "clean" method with the engine turned off, and the other is the messy way with the engine running and squirting oil everywhere.


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Engine "OFF" Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:

Warm the engine by running it until it gets to operating temperature (15-minutes or so). Have all your tools ready and then quickly remove the valve cover(s) and start the adjustment procedure by using the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder (see the above chart). In the small and big block Chevy engines this is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench). Now, with two fingers spinning the pushrod between them to feel for resistance you easily snug the adjustment nut. When you feel resistance STOP, now you will adjust the nut down "Only" 1/8-1/2 turn. If you operate your engine a consistent high RPM, use the lighter setting (1/8 turn).


What is 1/4 turn?
Imagine the hands on a clock. You have the obvious 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 o'clock positions as well as the numbers in-between those. If you start with your wrench at the 12:00 position and turn it clockwise to the 6:00 position you have just made 1/2 turn. Going from 12:00 to the 3:00 position would be 1/4 turn.

Now, you will do this for all the intake valves and then do the exhaust valves the same way.
PRECAUTION: If you have an older high mileage engine which the lifters bleed off pressure (drain the oil out of the lifter body), you can improperly adjust your valves. You need oil in the hydraulic lifter to be able to get an accurate setting. If you repeatedly adjust the valves by this procedure and they are still not correct, you probably have lifters bleeding off during adjustment. You have two options: Replace the Lifters -= or =- adjust the valves using the "HOT" running method described below.


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Engine RUNNING Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:

So you really like messes? This has to be one of the most miserable maintenance procedures if you do not properly plan ahead.

Some helpful hints:
•Adjust only one side of the engine at a time.
•Use oil restrictors on the rocker arms, or better yet a butchered up valve cover that has an access cut into the top of it to facilitate adjustment access.
•Stay calm ... you WILL get burnt, you WILL make a mess and you WILL not look forward to doing this again, especially if you screw up the first time.
•Using a mechanic's stethoscope can substantially make this procedure easier.
Adjusting hydraulic lifters with the engine running is not one of my favorite activities (as you can tell). With the above considerations addressed, start the engine and allow it to warm up. Begin to loosen one of the rocker arm adjusting nuts. You should hear the valvetrain just start to "clatter". Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the plunger depth (lifter preload). Continue this procedure on all the valves. If you hear excessive noises or the vehicle runs crappy you will be doing the procedure again. As stated above, if you have access to a mechanic's stethoscope, you can set the end at the top of the rocker stud to listen to the noise a loose adjustment makes, which will make finding "zero" lash easier.

IMPORTANT WARNING: If you make a mess, PLEASE use environmentally conscious methods to clean up any oil spills and then check your oil level. You would be surprised at how quickly, and how much oil can spill when performing valve adjustments with the engine running.


Compensating for a Cold Engine When Adjusting the Valve Lash

When installing a new camshaft, your engine will be cold. The problem is that the provided lash specifications are for an engine that has been running long enough to be at normal operating temperatures. So, what are you to do? There is a standard correction factor that can be used to get you close to the required settings. You must now consider the material alloys of the engine parts, because the thermal expansion of these components affect the valve lash in different ways. Therefore the correction factor used for your lash setting will depend upon whether the cylinder heads and block are made out of cast iron or aluminum.

Take the "hot" setting provided to you in the cam manufacturer's catalog or from the cam card that came with your camshaft. Use the figures below to alter the original lash specifications to get a "cold" lash setting.
◦Using iron block and iron heads, add .002"
◦Using iron block and aluminum heads, subtract .006"
◦Using both aluminum block and heads, subtract .012"
Remember this correction adjustment is only approximation, and it is only meant to get you close for the initial start up of your engine After the engine has been properly warmed up to normal operating temperatures you must go back and reset all the valves to the specified "hot" valve lash settings.

wow what long one..............